On Expenses - Chisou, London W1

Reviewer: Bob Leaf, Chairman, Robert S Leaf Consultants

What is it good for?

It provides some of the best Japanese food in London. The young Japanese staff ensure a pleasant ambience. Most dishes on the menu are ideal for sharing, so you have the opportunity to taste a wide variety of Japanese specialities.

Signature dishes

Gyu Tataki (seared beef) is a delight. So is Chawan Mushi (layers of prawns, chicken and mushrooms covered with delicate steamed custard). The fried tempura batter is especially light. The wide variety of sashimi are always fresh and if you haven't a specific choice the chef will select nine pieces and one cut roll for you. Among the delicious rolls on offer are Unagi Maki, an avocado roll with fresh crabmeat inside, topped with braised eel and Ebiten Maki, with deep-fried king prawn and asparagus inside. A fitting end is the green tea ice-cream or Japanese chestnut ice-cream.

Who's the boss?

David Leroy is in charge and Kodi is head chef.

Tips please

Lunch can be an amazing bargain. For example, a set lunch of tempura, sashimi or sushi with appetizer salad and miso soup and fruit is only £15.50.

Chisou, 4 Princess Street, London, W1B 2LE 020 7629 3931.

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