What's it good for?
Escaping the horse brasses, lacy tablecloths and place mats depicting Constable's Haywain that are still at large in the restaurants of rural England, despite what the Sunday supplements may tell you.
The kitchen turns out a palate-pleasing mix of hearty, local produce such as fat, herby Beaminster sausages and zingy chilli crabcakes packed with fresh crab from nearby West Bay, plus elegant French classics such as minute steak au poivre, bouillabaisse and a dainty selection of the sweetest puddings.
Who's the boss?
The Brasserie is part of the restored Bridge House Hotel. The chef is Linda Paget.
If you find that the shockingly reasonable wine list makes you linger, there's a Home James service that will drive you, and your car, to where you need to be (within a six-mile radius). Or you could sleep it off in one of the hotel's gorgeous rooms. Beaminster is easily reached by train (the nearest station, Crewkerne, is 140 minutes from Waterloo and has good links to Bristol and the South West).
Prout Street, Beaminster, Dorset, DT8 3AY; 01308 862 200