There is the Waterloo Tandoori, a favourite haunt of the City boys after a few too many port & lemons. There's the excellent, if crowded, Windmill Thai-in-a-pub round the corner in The Cut. But, let's face it, the Waterloo Road ain't Rue St Germain.
So we must thank Sally Greene and Robert Bourne for recently opening a Parisian-style brasserie, situated conveniently between the famous station and The Old Vic theatre.
As well as a long, cool bar at which to catch up in the evenings, there's an all-day restaurant offering French classics.
Service was fast and affable, while the sommelier proved an honest enthusiast who recommended a lush New Zealand Pinot Noir over the more staid Old World burgundies.
The easy menu and buzzy ambience makes the WB as good for a light business lunch as a convivial dinner a deux. In true brasserie fashion, we opted for a straight grill. The whole seabass was grilled to perfection, while the sirloin may even have made a Parisian smile. The desserts are fine, if unimaginative, but the sommelier was persuasive in the sale of a fine glass of Tokaj. A fitting closing nod to the old successfully blending with the new.
Where: 119 Waterloo Rd, London SE1 8UL
Contact: 020 7960 0202
How much: Lunch for two, from £50