The restaurant nestles behind anonymous doors in Lower Regent Street, in the heart of the West End. Its pedigree is immaculate, from the stable of Messrs Chris Corbin and Jeremy King, who made the Ivy and Le Caprice such successes, before they sold up to run the Wolseley, and now this fine eaterie.
The menu is European, and consistently strong - Norfolk black pig and the Sardinian fish stew are excellent stalwarts, along with souffles for desert. The service, though, is what makes the place special - swift, personal and unobtrusive. Imagine a private dining club, but no membership fee.
Clients will love the classy modern atmosphere if taken there for a business meal. With enough space between the tables, you can talk without your neighbours listening in, and there is always 'star-spotting' if the conversation starts to drag.
The bill is a little pricey, but not so expensive that you cannot find a reason to justify the cost. Around £110 for two if you do not go silly with the Albarino.
Where: Rex House, 4-12 Lower Regent Street, SW1Y 4PE
Contact: 020 7499 8558
How much: £55 per head