Let's meet at - Due South

Reviewed by David Andrews, director, David Andrews Media.

I used to despair of finding somewhere decent to chow down in Brighton. 'Shall we pop down to Brighton?' was the familiar, hopeful refrain from clients. But it rarely happened because, with one or two exceptions, Brighton restaurants were grim.

However, Brighton has come a long way since Keith Waterhouse's wry observation that it 'looks like a town that is constantly helping the police with their enquiries'. Due South, bang on the seafront, is the best of the new breed of eateries that have blossomed here in recent years. With spectacular sea views and an inventive, ever-changing menu, its accolade of Best Seaside Restaurant in Britain (Observer Food Monthly) is well deserved. I recently lunched with an executive, down from London, who was clearly up for making a day of it. When I arrived, he had drunk the best part of a bottle of organic Sauvignon Blanc and was noisily working through a pile of South Brockwells Farm asparagus and homemade focaccia. 'Damn, this place is good,' he beamed. It is.

As the menu is drawn almost exclusively from local Sussex growers and breeders, there is some new delight or other available every week. The food is outstanding, service is laid back but efficient, and on a warm day it's lovely to sit outside and watch the world go by. Where: 139 King's Rd Arches, Brighton

Contact: 01273 821218

How much: around £25 per person.

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