Adam Street, south of the Strand, was the centre of Dickens' London when he wrote Oliver Twist. The eponymous club's vaults were the setting for Fagin's Den and this chic, urban club, formerly the Green Room, remains a refuge for scoundrels.
On a weekday you may find Ant and Dec on expenses - perhaps even Hugh Grant. But it is also ideal for the news anchor, the entrepreneur and the politician.
The club menu features inexpensive and simple English fare, though chef Chris Keil can rise to specials such as scallops with truffle vinaigrette.
A decent wine list has something for every pocket and pretence.
The service is similarly accommodating. Jenny is the person you want; look after her and she will look after you. Some of the lads offer service with a snarl, but it's all part of the Dickensian charm.
The atmosphere of Adam Street depends very much on the day and time - sometimes laidback and hospitable, other times edgy and clandestine, but always different.
This is also a discrete place. The numerous private rooms provide great locations to party, launch, exhibit, meet, and present.
I don't really do lunch, but when I do, I go here.
Where: 9 Adam Street, London WC1A Contact: 020 7379 8000 How much: £35 per head