The term 'modern French' doesn't do justice to The Square, where co-owner Philip Howard has cooked for 14 years.
This is the hautest of haute cuisine. For a start there's the buzz, an atmosphere of sheer class and professionalism. Then there's the food: crab lasagne with shellfish cappuccino is a Howard signature dish. The wine list is a towering tome, but will not give your accountant a heart attack.
The Square sits in the very heart of Mayfair's property mafia. Apart from the days in March when they all go down to the south of France for the MIPIM Conference, you will always find a big property cheese wheeling and dealing at the widely spaced tables.
The discreet door on Bruton Street gives little indication of the joys beyond, and a welcome smile from the receptionist will lead you into the arms of a very professional and slick team. This is where The Square really scores - service. They know just when to interrupt: there is no waving of the pepper grinder, no irritating questions such as 'is everything all right?'.
The Square is not a restaurant for a girly lunch or a boys' night out, but it is a discreet addition to your new business weaponry. Forget the PowerPoint and just take the chairman to The Square, armed with a Mont Blanc pen and the contract.
Where: 6-10 Bruton St, London, W1
Contact: 020 7495 7100
How much: £30 three-course set menu