Diary: Let's Do Lunch - Sketch

Reviewed by Raoul Shah, joint managing director, Exposure.

Overhyped, overpriced and over here. That's what the critics said about Sketch when it first opened. More than two years later it's still here and doing incredibly well - and deservedly so.

Set in a Grade II-listed building in Mayfair, Sketch is unlike anything London has ever seen. A gallery, a tearoom, a patisserie, two bars, an informal eaterie and The Lecture Room on the first floor.

This Michelin-starred restaurant evokes a huge, spacious drawing room with a luxurious finish throughout.

The menu, created by head chef Pierre Gagnaire, is both delicious and worth the money. The fixed lunch menu is ideal, whether for business or a social occasion. On choosing your main (I'd recommend the shellfish soup), you are presented with an amazing selection of small side dishes to accompany each course; each to be eaten in a specific order to maximise the taste.

Meanwhile, sommelier Frederic Brugues offers a wine list that must be where some of the initial investment was surely directed.

The staff are efficient and meticulous, yet not too formal.

Despite its critics, I love this place and admire the fact that its owners have taken more than a few risks to bring London a world-class establishment that delivers without compromise.

Where: 9 Conduit Street, London, W1

Contact: 0870 777 4488

How much: £35 for fixed lunch menu

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