Diary: Let's Do Lunch - Sale e Pepe

Reviewed by David Bick, chief executive, Holborn.

Sale e Pepe in Knightsbridge is no ordinary Italian restaurant. First, you are greeted by the immaculate maitre d' and main man Tony, or in his absence the super-suave Tommaso.

Regulars are confronted by the incessant banter. 'I hope you have a booking sir as we are fully booked,' intones a stern-looking Tommaso. As the barman attends swiftly to sir's wine requirements, Tommaso turns to two of the many stunning women who frequent this establishment.

To them he says: 'Do you like oysters? The English oysters here are the best in the world.'

'No,' they say.

'What about the mussels then?'

'No,' they say.

'Well, they are no bloody good anyway,' Tommaso fires back. The young ladies and their young male host burst into laughter. The laughter might as well be Sale e Pepe's signature tune as the restaurant resonates with it. And our waiter is being misleading of course - the oysters are wonderful.

Indifferent food, zero ambience and overbearing service are a bane of my life. These drawbacks have never featured at Sale e Pepe. So, do I have any criticisms? No, although girls should beware a staffer bedecked in white called Juan. I will leave you to find out why.

Where: Pavillion Road, London, SW1 OHD

Contact: 020 7235 0098

How much: £35 a head with wine

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