Diary: Let's Do Lunch - Winkles

Reviewed by Damian Beeley, director, Facade International

Winkles is a delightful and refreshing reminder of the East End's reputation for fresh fish and seafood. Bethnal Green might not leap to mind as an obvious location for a PR lunch, but it's just the place to excite jaded City palates.

Don't be fooled by the temptation to walk from the Tube; it's a fair hike and I'd recommend a taxi. And don't worry about finding one on Roman Road, the charming family management will arrange one for your return.

As you enter you're confronted with an ice-laden cold compartment holding all the crustaceans you ever dreamed of, fresh and wrapped in glacial air-conditioning.

The menu is an almost impossible choice - Thai prawn omelette, oysters with shallots and red-wine vinegar, briny clams and dressed crabs. Scallops with ginger and garlic were wonderful, plump, exactly grilled, served in the half-shell like true Coquilles St Jacques. Pan-fried halibut is freshest and comes in generous portions.

The beer-battered cod with mushy peas is easily overlooked but don't be fooled. It is sensational.

When I went to Winkles the bill - including a bottle of excellent Sancerre - was £100 for two. Even at that price it was a notable bargain for fish this fine.

Where: 238 Roman Road, E2 0RY

Contact: 020 8880 7450

How much: £30

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