Diary: Let's Do Lunch - Locanda Locatelli

Reviewed by Debbie Hindle, MD, BGB Communications.

Hotel restaurants don't get a good press and often rightly so. But in the past three years, a number of chefs have used the space and financial backing of hotels to open their own ventures.

My favourite is Locanda Locatelli in Seymour Street - tucked to one side of the Churchill InterContinental Hotel and home to Georgio Locatelli since 2002.

The fact that the restaurant quickly won a Michelin star is ample evidence that every mouthful packs a punch here. This is a great place to bring any foodie.

From the moment you taste the intense, peppery green virgin olive oil and startling long twists of bread, you'll be hooked. I've enjoyed the simplest plate of fresh spinach through to a pudding that was a work of art - a plate of miniature creations embroidered with curvaceous sweeps of chocolate and diamond twists of sugar exploding with such unusual flavours that it was a true conversation stopper.

If you can raise your eyes from your plate, the only problem is the rather awkward L-shape to the restaurant and the 70s-inspired interiors, which might not suit some tastes. I have a hatred of tables that are too close together and some of the ones for two do sit you very near to your neighbours, so don't come here to discuss confidential deals. Just eat!

Where: 8 Seymour Street, London W1H

Contact: 020 7935 9088

How much: £45 a head without wine

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