Le Cafe St Honore is the antithesis of the brash, uber-hip restaurant.
Which is why it's attracted acclaim from Automobile Association rosettes to AA Gill.
Central, yet tucked away down a cobbled lane, its dark interior adds to its clandestine feel, making it an ideal place to do business. Old fashioned, discreet and not for the braying mobile-phone brigade. A place to be seen for those who don't want to be seen.
The food's good. Authentic French cuisine meets traditional Scottish tuck. The lamb chops were nicely pink and the grilled mackerel and mussels hit the mark, though slightly lacking on the promised chillies. Interesting starters and puddings. A wine list to die for. Fresh flowers and even fresher bread greet you on arrival.
Engaging service - refreshingly Parisian brassiere style rather than misplaced sycophancy. Quick with it too, so it is possible to be through the doors in 60 minutes if needs must.
Judging by the old school suits on the Monday lunch, this is an established place to talk shop. Low on media, big on emerging markets, so little chance of embargo-busting twitching ears.
It's no bargain basement, but the main shame was the fleeting nature of our visit. The winking wine list will have to wait for another day.
Where: 34 NW Thistle Street Lane, Edinburgh, EH2 1EA
Contact: 0131 226 2211
How much: £18 - £20 for three courses