Diary: Let's do Lunch - Fishmarket Reviewed by Leanne Tritton, MD of ing media

The City, quite surprisingly, does not have a diverse range of restaurants in terms of cuisine - and few

are suitable for client lunches. So for consistency rather than flair, Fishmarket in Bishopsgate is a safe bet rather than an inspired choice.

Based in the renovated Great Eastern Hotel next to Liverpool Street station, the restaurant is a successful blend of Conran modernity and Victorian grandeur, which makes for a comfortable ambience in which to talk business.

The tables are big and well spaced apart from each other, ensuring discretion and unintrusive noise levels. A table in the bar area is a welcome option for more casual occasions.

The seafood menu is adventurous and offers some fresh variations of traditional dishes. But I tend to opt for the tried and tested fish of the day with chips. The chips are thick cut and delicious - not the insipid variety some restaurants still serve.

There's also a quality wine list and it's one of the few places in London where the champagne and white wine is always served chilled.

One gripe is that the service is a bit Stepford Wives. Having been a regular visitor since it opened, I'd probably appreciate at least the occasional nod of recognition from the staff, although the waiters are attentive and unobtrusive. The lights are on, but no one's home in the charm department.

Where: Bishopsgate, London, EC2M 7QN

Contact: 0207 618 7200

How much: £25-£30

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