Old Bibi's has recently been replaced by a new model, the hyper-glam Bibi's Criterion. Strangers to Leeds could be forgiven for thinking that this version is ironic kitsch at its most extreme, but I don't think it is. I did feel I was missing my shoulder pads, though.
It's a microcosm of everything that's happening in the city: loads of businessmen doing deals at the bar and lots of very smart women swooshing in and out.
The decor is a homage to marble and mirrors. It's a bit like being on a cruise liner in the 1920s. Great for a team lunch or a Christmas do, but maybe not if you're trying to clinch that heavyweight new contract.
There are just too many distractions.
That aside, the food is not bad. Bibi's stalwarts such as calamari with sweet chilli jam and chargrilled king prawns and garlic were very nice.
Everyone at my table had a pasta main course and although some of the alternatives looked good, the pasta was rather stodgy. But I've heard the sirloin steak is excellent.
The bar is buzzing and the cocktails seem to flow easily alongside the lager and bottles of wine and I'm sure many a smart punter will end up dishevelled and disoriented on the swanky dance floor. It's a bit like being on a film set, real escapism on a big night out.
Where: Criterion Place, Leeds, LS1 4AG
Contact: 0113 243 0905
How much: £24 for two courses and wine