In Glasgow, it has always been the eatery to clinch business. More deals have been cooked up in this beautifully maintained art deco oyster bar and restaurant than hot dinners.
Its high-backed circular booths are perfect for intimate conversations, and the cherubs in its gold leaf frescos hear no evil and see no evil.
No wonder it's so popular with footballers, rock stars and PR people.
Restaurants come and go. The Rogano goes on forever. In Glasgow it's an institution.
Never take a client to the downstairs restaurant. First enjoy a perfect glass of champagne in the bar. Then meander through to the restaurant.
You are sure to recognise a face or three.
A brimming platter of oysters or a constantly replenished plate of fish soup with cheese-crusted croutons and a crisp glass of Chablis make for an ideal starter.
It's a fish restaurant, so you may want to stick with the sound of the sea. I prefer the beef or some pink-cooked game washed down with a claret.
Pudding? I've never had room.
Next time you spot me there, don't say hello because I'll be doing a deal; you probably will be too.
Where: 11 Exchange Place, Glasgow G1
Contact: 0141 248 4055
How much: £30 per head