Hot Spot: Mere, Soho, London

Classical French and South Pacific-influenced fare in a swanky but relaxed Soho atmosphere.

The story

As a big fan of Monica Galetti from her appearances on MasterChef: The Professionals, I was keen to try her first solo opening, named after her mother Mary, which she runs with husband David. The food is billed as a blend of classical French and South Pacific influences.

The reality

The influence of her mentor Michel Roux Jr is clear in the pristine service, but there is a more relaxed atmosphere. The bar is light and bright and staff are friendly.

The menu

We went for the six-course tasting menu, which mirrored the de´cor with lightness of touch. Stand-out courses included an awesome cheese course and a pea, lemon, ricotta and hazelnut dish.

Signature dish

It’s hard to pick one dish, but the lamb seems to be a consistent win. We had ours with white onion, turnips and Manuka honey.

The damage

£73 per head for a six-course tasting menu isn’t bad when you’re talking about this level of cooking, and a £50 wine pairing feels reasonable if you’re splashing out.

Dining experience ****

Some memorable dishes and switched-on but relaxed staff left a very positive impression, and an appearance from Monica herself was a nice touch.

Chances of a last-minute booking

Actually pretty good. The initial hype has died down and the option for set lunchtime menus Monday to Friday means it doesn’t need to be an epic out-of-office visit.

Client wow factor ****

If they know who Monica Galetti is then it adds to the wow factor but if not, it’s swanky enough to know you’re somewhere special without being overly stuffy.

Overall *****

High-end cooking that can be enjoyed in a relaxed atmosphere and without the need to lie down afterwards (unless the booze has been flowing of course).

Mere, 74 Charlotte Street London W1T 4QH, 020 7268 6565

Reviewed by Jack Hutchinson, creative, Mischief

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