What is it good for?
Original fireplaces and wall panels combine to elegant effect in the bar, where staff serve up capably rendered British food. The whopping wine list will keep Old and New World enthusiasts happy, although a pint of properly kept Adnams on the roadside terrace is hard to beat.
Start with potted-ham hock and piccalilli or Carlingford rock oysters before the must-have beer-battered fish and chips. Guests in the dainty upstairs dining room can pick from more refined dishes such as seared scallops and bacon-wrapped grouse.
Who's the boss?
Barry Hirst and Stefan Turnbull.
The upstairs part of the restaurant is beautiful and offers a much more decadent and private dining experience than sitting downstairs.
What's the damage?
There is a two-course lunch menu upstairs for £17.50 from Monday to Friday; otherwise expect to pay about £30 for three courses.
The Thomas Cubitt, 44 Elizabeth Street, London, SW1W 9PA. 020 7730 6060.