Reviewer Nicola Harrison, director, Speed.
What's it good for?
NOPI is situated north of Piccadilly, hence the name. The food arrives on fashionably small plates and invites you and your fellow diners to tussle over punchy, flavoursome dishes mainly of Middle Eastern provenance. If you like your meals served up with a hearty side order of conversation, then book a table here.
The octopus served with spicy black pudding may sound like a nauseating combination of cephalopod and dried-blood sausage, but it has a scrumptious melting tenderness with a slap of paprika.
Who's the boss?
It is owned by Yotam Ottolenghi, who also has deli-cafes in Notting Hill, Islington, Kensington and Belgravia.
Pick up a fork, put some food on it and direct it towards your mouth before anybody else has the opportunity.
What's the damage?
The dishes range between £7 and £12. The menu suggests that three dishes would be more than ample.
NOPI, 21-22 Warwick Street, London, W1B 5NE. 020 7494 9584.