Let's Do Lunch - MJU

Reviewed by Ann Cunnane, director of Darwall Smith Associates.

MJU in Knightsbridge is having a bit of a renaissance. Fuelled by the cool but highly discreet cocktail bar and, of course, the food by Dane Tom Thomsen, my best-kept secret in West London is a secret no more.

Tucked away on the first floor of the Millennium Hotel, MJU is a juxtaposition of crisp white linen and funky, crimson velvet-cushioned chic. It has a huge airy atrium open to the sky, contrasting with a number of cosy snugs where you can talk without being overheard. The staff are courteous and impeccable in manners.

For real food lovers you need to try one of Thomsen's menus, which come anywhere between four and eight courses, with, if requested, paired wine from the sommelier. My favourite dishes are the Colchester oysters with pomegranate, ginger and passionfruit; MJU sashimi - tuna dressed with wasabi ice cream; foie gras and truffle sauce; and the wagyu beef. The interesting thing is that they don't use cream or alcohol and so I've been told you can eat at MJU every day and still remain slim - too good to be true.

The restaurant used to be full of ladies who lunch but last autumn it was snapped up by London Fashion Week to host its official launch party.

Now I see it appearing as a regular backdrop for celebrity photoshoots and spreads.

Where: Millennium Hotel, Knightsbridge Contact: 020 7201 6330 How much: Tasting menus from £46

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