Eyre Brothers lies on the City's northern edge, surrounded by new media and financial technology firms, as well as publications such as Financial News and The Banker.
Converted from a warehouse in 2001, well-spaced tables and, crucially, low noise levels make it very useful for a serious, discreet briefing. Reception is slick and service fast and unobtrusive.
The colonial Mozambique-influenced menu includes starters such as octopus salad with mussel and chilli vinaigrette, and grilled pheasant marinated in madeira.
Recently my journalist companion enjoyed the grilled dorada fillets, but the Portuguese salt cod casserole was lacking in flavour. Other main courses include grilled veal chop with piquillo peppers, poularde clams with jamon serrano, and grilled Mozambique tiger prawns.
There was only one vegetarian option on my last visit: a little more latitude from Iberian authenticity in this regard might be helpful in 2004 London.
Eyre Brothers will probably never be a place for City people-spotting, but it's close to some key media, and with its attractive bar area and mixed creative clientele, it's also worth thinking of for evening business entertaining - within five minutes walk from Liverpool Street.
Where: 70 Leonard Street, EC2A 4BP
Contact: 020 7613 5346
How much: £22-£25 for two courses