Hot Spot: Berners Tavern

Melanie Cullis, associate director at Kindred, reviews this month's top eatery, Berners Tavern.

10 Berners Street, London W1T 3NP
020 7908 7979, bernerstavern.com

The story
Berners Tavern at the London Edition hotel boasted the best reviews of all London restaurant launches in 2013, and when Fay Maschler and Giles Coren agree, you know you’re on to a good thing. Not to mention that Jason Atherton, chef of the decade according to The Telegraph, is at the helm.

The reality
The restaurant is set in one big, beautiful room but, despite its size, feels relaxed and intimate. Here it’s hard to imagine a time when hotel restaurants were stuffy and full of OAPs. The team is genuinely enthusiastic; everyone from front of house to table was a delight. The waiting staff were passionate about the menu, which made for a great icebreaker with our guests. It’s an excellent location for a lunch as service is quick, allowing you to get through three courses comfortably without rushing in 90 minutes. And the tables are cleverly spaced.

The damage
£244.69 for four people eating three courses, including service, no booze.

Signature dishes
The menu is extensive and they do an awesome job with twists on British classics – the lobster and prawn cocktail is fun and moreish (and received lots of positive noises from around the table), and the lamb and ham hock showcased Atherton’s innovative flavour combinations. And I hear the fish and chips on a Friday are faultless. The biggest wow factor was the desserts, a great bit of fun to round up the meal and it left us all with a warm glow and a nice sugar high. So if you’re keeping it to two courses, drop the starter (although that lobster cocktail is damn good…).

Dining experience *****
Try to request a table in the centre of the room in the booth tables; you get the full experience of the impressive room. I imagine it’s also very special in the evening.

Chance of a last-minute booking ***
Much easier now its initial hype has died down. Don’t let this discourage you – there’s still a steady flow of clientele, maintaining its buzz. It looked like there was space for walk-ins too.
 
Client wow factor *****
Our client absolutely loved it.
 
Overall ****
I’ll be back for the fish and chips.

Reviewed by Melanie Cullis, associate director, Kindred

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